May 3, 1999
In a simpler time, we knew that red wine was meant for meat and white was to be served with fish. But now, as explained in this handy cookbook and reference tool, all bets are off because so many influences are at play in transforming American cuisine into a global smorgasbord. Using color-coding, select recipes and ample photographs, Goldstein leads readers through food and wine pairing in a systematic fashion. Sixteen varieties of wine are examined, from Champagne to Sauterne. A roster of "Typical Aromas & Flavors" associated with each wine is followed by a countdown of "Base Ingredients," those at the heart of the recipes that are to be matched to each fruit of the vine. So, shrimp is to a Sauvignon as sausage is to a Sangiovese. Next, a roll call of "Bridge Ingredients" informs which flavors help the food and wine interact properly. Goldstein begins with his "Classic Pairing" concoctions: Smoked Pork Chops with Sauerkraut and Green Apples to go with a Riesling, and Roast Prime Rib with Herbed Yorkshire Pudding to match a Cabernet, for example. But others bravely push the cross-ethnic envelope: a Pinot Noir meets its match with an Asian-Styled Grilled Squab with Fennel, Bok Choy and Chaterelle Mushrooms. Even as the database format of this book proves Goldstein to be an exacting connoisseur, the variety of these dishes show him to be a multicultural man for all seasonings as well. (July) Copyright 1999 Cahners Business Information.